Health Issues


[ Red Fins]   [Spitting]  [Swimming With Mouth Open]  [Laying Over]  

[Sitting on the Bottom]  [Jumping]   [Milky Skin]  [Split Fin]   [Flashing-Scratching]

[Worms Under Scales] [Fish Wasting Away]   [Bulging Eyes]  [White Eye] 

[Color Changes]  [Septicemia] [Velvet Disease] [Inflammation]

[Columnaris-Cotton Wool Disease] [Copepods] [Tumours]   [Fish Pox]  

[Salts]   [Salt dosage chart]   [Humane Disposal of ill fish]

[General Faqs/Problems] [Fish supplies]


More HEALTH-ISSUES





White Eye- is a type of flexobacterial infection that is best treated with injections.  Visit http://www.koivet.com for more info on this.  In some cases a fish will have suffered trauma to the eye and this will appear.  White eye may also be caused by a surge of ammonia in the tank.  In this case it is best to check the water quality, add some stress coat, and salt. top

Septicemia-  A condition where bacteria gains entry into the fish's body through wounds or the stomach. The bacteria can cause failure of the internal organs, damage to body tissue, blood vessels, and result in recognizable symptoms.  This often results in internal bleeding, due to the fluids filling the fish's abdomen. Dropsy may occur as a result. The problem with this type of situation is that the bacteria is present inside the fish and safe from the antibiotics you would place in the water. It could be the result of another infection or caused from dirty water. Symptoms: Clamped fins, bulging eyes, red bellies, eroding, reddened fins, lack of appetite, and fish showing signs of being sluggish or exhibiting sluggish behavior. Treatment: It is best to feed the fish antibiotics rather than using the kinds you place directly into the water. Placing the ill fish in a hospital tank is advised while administering treatment.  Check your local petstore for some good medicated food or check for antibiotics if necessary.  Septicemia is fatal if not treated immediately! top

Velvet Disease- Velvet will affect fry that are only a few days old.  These parasites mainly attack the skin but may also cause severe damage to the gills.  Symptoms:  Fish rub themselves against solid objects and may have difficulty breathing.  As the infection increases, a yellowish brown to grayish haze may be appearing in dots.  The skin may become inflamed. The fish will become emaciated.  You can see the individual parasites with a magnifying glass. Treatment: There are several medications available that are worth trying.  Older remedies were to use copper sulphate.  (with extreme caution) Usually young fish show the signs and symptoms first and happen to be the most difficult to treat. The reason for this is the fact that they are sensitive to the chemicals available for use in the aquarium.  top

Copepods- Many species of parasitic copepods infest the gills of a wide variety of freshwater and marine fishes. The common parasite is Ergasiulus sieboldi, which infests many freshwater fishes and has also been reported on herring. This species is up to 1.7mm long and has a bluish pigmentation. E. briani is slightly smaller and also lives on various freshwater fish. E. boettgeri is only up to 0.75 mm long and is seen in tropical freshwater fish. E. minor lacks the blue pigment. Caligus rapix is found on imported marine fish and affects skin and fins as well as the fish's gills. Symptoms- The evidence is very difficult to spot in the early stages. When the parasites take hold the affected fish become emaciated and have a hard time breathing. Lifting the gill flap of a dead or anesthetized fish may reveal the parasites nestling in the gill folds. Treatment- There are many anti-parasite treatments available that are successful. Damaged gills may develop fungus as a secondary infection; treat with a medication to deal with this as well.  top

Tumours- Any fish can become affected. Tumours can be benign or cancerous. Tumours are usually incurable. Abnormal growth of the thyroid gland, which sometimes occurs, is occasionally curable. Symptoms- Internal tumours can be seen when they distend the body, otherwise they can not be detected. External tumours show as projecting lumps on affected fish! Treatment- Well unfortunately without expert advice thyroid tumours cannot be identified. Usually it is advisable to dispose of the fish humanely!  top

Color Changes- If the goldfish was once black and has turned orange or was once orange and is turning white it could be that the fish has been kept indoors and without full sunlight.  (which would be the case if you had a tank in the house).  The fish is suffering from pigment loss in the skin.  Red Capped Orandas are famous for losing the red cap. Orange comets are famous for turning white.  The key is as follows:

  • Water quality is great
  • Discolored areas are not raised compared to the other skin
  • Discolored areas are not depressed under the rest of the skin
  • Fish is acting good, eating normally, and fins are erect and white ( no hemorrhaging)

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Scratching or Flashing-Fish that flash and scratch will do this if they have flukes or most any parasite.  They do this to try to remove them from their bodies.  Parasites will damage the skin, opening it to infection.  The other thing is the fish will do their own damage to the skin when they flash so you need to treat this immediately.  Water changes are important because water quality can cause flashing.  A large water change can sometimes cause flashing as the fish is adapting to the different pH level.  Chlorine or other metals can cause this as well.  Using a dechlorinator helps a lot with this.  top

Inflammation- All fish are open to this. When a fish is subjected to waste product buildup in the tank in which they reside they may show signs of inflammation. Symptoms- Reddening on or under the fish's skin over part or the entire body. Fishes behave normal at first then quickly show signs of a problem and die. Treatment- Purchase an antibiotic such as nifurpirinol, etc. Follow directions as stated on the package. Advanced cases will clear up in a short time! top

Jumping- This behavior might suggest the fish is suffering from parasites, or even poor water conditions.  When the pH is dropping fish will jump because the water is irritating to their skin.  So the first thing is to check the water conditions.  If they check out fine than you would want to consider parasites.  Flukes especially can cause jumping.  So always establish water conditions and then treat for parasites.  Salt is a good tool to use as well. top

Bulging Eyes- This is usually related to dropsy.  This is a fluid accumulation in the body.  Salting the water may help. Bulging eyes with dropsy is terminal.  Trauma to the eye can cause bulging.  This is when swelling occurs in the blood vessels of the eyes and the bulging or swelling will go down in about a week or so. top

Red Fins- Fins that are very red with dilated vessels or a reddish tinge to them can be the signs of several things:

  • Bacterial infection
  • Nitrate poisoning
  • Ammonia or Nitrite accumulation
  • Parasites
  • Stress

First thing, check the water quality, and if it checks out okay do a partial water change and salt the tank.

Salt dosage chart here

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Laying Over- Layover or Sleeping Sickness is usually a bacterial infection caused by parasites chewing on the gills or skin. In other instances, it is only a result of severe stress, such as a bitter cold or exposure to chlorine.  The most common found parasites are Costia, Trichodina, and Chilodinella.  

You will have to evaluate for all sources of stress and get them corrected.  It is recommended by http://www.koivet.com to salt at 0.3% and then in at all possible, inject the fish to offset any infection that may be in the fish's system.  Several medications are available. top

Sitting on the Bottom- Fish that sit on the tank bottom are divided into two categories.

Class A - Sinkers who have to struggle to swim to the midwater or the tank surface.  These fish have a swimbladder problem, sometimes due to a bacterial infection, sometimes due to defects in air bladder filling and some are autopsied to find water in the airsac instead of air.  Electrocution can cause this system as well.

Class B - Sinkers which swim fine when disturbed. These fish usually feature a massive fluke burden and are being weakened by the flukes.  They rest on the bottom, which further assists the flukes in becoming numerous on the skin and gills.  The fish will eventually die.  A dose of Healthguard or Fluke Tabs is usually rapidly effective to these fish.  You can also perk them up with salt.  

The above information was found at http://www.koivet.com

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Milky Skin- Milky skin is excess mucus production.  If no new fish have been added more than likely the reason is from pH plunges.  Symptoms: Fish hanging at the surface, their skin will appear milky, and their eyes may turn whitish. Treatment:  If the pH is stable, but you have added new fish, you can consider ammonia burn, or perhaps parasites.  In either event, using salt is highly recommended.  In some rare cases, a salt resistant Trichodina, Costia, or Fluke infestation may be the culprit.  Use of a microscope will be needed to diagnose this.  Then you would treat for the parasite you discovered accordingly.

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Split Fin- This can indicate skin flukes are present.  When tails are notched and the pectorals are split, it is a good idea to take the fish to someone who can view with a microscope.  The area is then sutured.  This procedure is not recommended by someone who is not specialized to perform it.  Contact http://www.koivet.com for more information.

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Fish Wasting Away- Many times in which fish appear to be wasting away they are being taken over with flukes.  If there is no other explanation such as bad water, the flukes can become troublesome and overtake the fish.  The body is slowly dying as the fish bleeds to death through its gills.  This is more common in younger fish (1 yr).  Larger or older fish can have it, but sometimes the wasting away is caused by some other internal problem such as tuberculosis of the liver, bad corn diet, or etc.  A better diet is advised! top

Fish Pox- The disease mainly is seen in Carp.  It has been found among some various aquarium fish. It is thought that fish pox is mainly caused by a species specific virus. Symptoms- The disease begins as small, opalescent white spots with a greasy appearance and possibly with streaks of black pigment. These spots stand above the skin about 1-2 mm and gradually increase in size. The spots merge so that large areas of skin are affected. The growths are quite firm to the touch and may take on a reddish grey appearance with time. Treatment- There is no known treatment for this. If the affected fish are kept in clean, healthy surroundings the signs should disappear after 8-12 weeks. They may appear again but this is unlikely with healthy fish.  top

Worms Under the Scales- If you see worms under the scales you are seeing anchor worms.  They are best treated with Dimilin.  Dimilin clears the worms in only a few days.  Once administered it remains in the water for months. Dimilin is available at http://www.koivet.com top

Open Mouth (cannot close mouth)- This is usually when fish have a rock or something foreign stuck in their mouths.  If you are very gentle you can push it forward and out of their mouth through an accessway under the gill cover.  The fish of course would do better if under some anesthesia.  Oil of cloves can be recommended too.  The other reasons for open mouth could be a sore or ulcer located on the roof of the mouth.  This is usually treated by swabbing the area with hydrogen peroxide (be careful not to get any in the gills) and an injection of Baytril.  More information on injections available at http://www.koivet.com. top

Spitting- This is almost always from an advanced infestation of flukes.  But you should do the following 2 things:

(1) Capture the fish, and do an oral exam looking for an ulcer, check the gills for swelling, paleness, white streaks around the edges of the gill or through the gill tissue, or any kind of foreign body (rock, pebble, etc.).

(2) Scrape the gill and examine under a microscope for flukes.  ( best done by someone who knows what they are looking for)

More information is available on flukes at http://www.koivet.com

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(Columnaris)Cotton Wool Disease- This is highly contagious caused by a bacterium.  It spreads through the water and can be transferred by nets and other aquarium equipment. The bacteria enters the fish's body, especially via wounds and small abrasions. They then multiply quickly to produce the characteristic symptoms. This is very widespread in freshwater fish, especially livebearers. Symptoms- A grayish white film develops over the fish's skin, particularly on the head region, but also on fins, gills and body. The fish could have sore(s) that are red on the outside and white on the inside. As the disease progresses, the body may become ulcerated, fins frayed, and the lips and front of the head can be eaten away. Treatment- This disease is very virulent and must be treated immediately. Fish that are affected around the mouth may die within 24 hours. Antibacterial compounds are effective. The best way to avoid the disease is to keep your fish in clean, healthy conditions and add a small quantity of salt to the water.  top



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