The best way to prevent your fish from becoming ill is to follow the basic
rules to having good aquarium management. Feed the fish specified amounts,
maintain proper temperature and water conditions. Be sure to make frequent
water changes and supply enough oxygen. Unfortunately, illness sometimes
still occurs. When fish become ill they show signs in their behavior such
as: (see photos illustrating
disease)
Most fish diseases can be treated if caught in time (below is a list of some common problems seen in goldfish) or you can view a diagnostic guide of specific signs or symptoms or read medications list here
[General Faqs/Problems] [Fish supplies] [Poop Diagnosis] [Anchor worm] [Bacterial infection] [Dropsy] [Fin-Tail Rot] [Fungus] [Ick] [Ulcers] [Swimbladder] [Flipover Disease] [Constipation] [Clamped fins] [Pop eyes] [Skin flukes] [Cloudy eye] [Chilodonella] [Losing Scales] [Blood flagellates] [Black spot] [Slime Disease] [ Red Fins] [Spitting] [Swimming With Mouth Open] [Laying Over] [Color Changes] [Bent spine] [Sitting on the Bottom] [Jumping] [Milky Skin] [Split Fin] [Flashing-Scratching] [Worms Under Scales] [Fish Wasting Away] [Bulging Eyes] [White Eye] [Costia] [Fish leech] [Fish lice] [Tuberculosis] [Internal Parasitic Worms] [Septicemia] [Velvet Disease] [Inflammation] [Columnaris-Cotton Wool Disease] [Copepods] [Tumours] [Fish Pox] [Salts] [Salt dosage chart]
Jungle Pond Anchors
Away
Bacterial Infection (see photos) Bacterial diseases are usually the result of unsanitary tanks, cold water, over-crowding, corn-based diets, or parasite infestation. There are several forms of bacterial infections that can infect your fish. Many times the symptoms of bacterial disease can be visible on the fish. Such common diseases are Fin Rot, Ulcers, and Dropsy. Other bacterial infections are impossible to distinguish without running laboratory tests. It is not necessary to identify the specifics before you can treat the fish. To help prevent this maintain proper water conditions. Symptoms: Cloudy eyes, open sores on the body, abscesses, inflammation of the skin(reddening), fins or internal organs. Bulging eyes may be present or possibly rapid breathing. Treatment: A fish infected with a bacterial disease should be treated in a separate tank( if possible). The best medicine is a broad spectrum gram negative antibiotic such as furan, kanamycin sulfate, or spectrogram. There are other possible treatments. See your local pet store. (back to top)
Jungle(r) Medicated Pond Fish
Food
Dropsy (see diagram) Dropsy is not a specific disease, but rather a condition where the fish's abdomen becomes swollen. It causes concentration of the fluids in the body tissues or cavities. This results in swelling of the fish's abdomen, thus creating a pinecone effect. The scales protrude from the body. A sudden swelling of the abdomen (scales may stick out) is known as acute dropsy while a slow swelling of the abdomen is known as chronic dropsy. The actual cause of this swelling could be one of several conditions: Acute Dropsy - Internal bacterial infection can cause internal bleeding and thus cause acute dropsy. Chronic Dropsy - cancer: In this case, the abdomen is slow to swell as the cancer affects the fish's internal organs. If the fish is not isolated in the early stages of the disease, it could spread to other fish that are being housed with the ill fish. Chronic Dropsy - parasites: Internal parasites can cause dropsy(abdominal swelling) because they are rather large parasites or because of the damage they are causing with the fish's organs. The abdomen tends to swell over a period of time if the fish is infested with internal parasites. It is best to isolate the sick fish at once to help maintain the outbreak of disease with other fish! Goldfish are said to be somewhat more prone to dropsy than other fish. In some cases it is caused by a Costia Infection. Be careful when making this decision. Some fish could be spawning. Symptoms: The body will have a general swelling with protrusion of scales. The eyes may even bulge. Treatment: Dropsy is not very contagious. The earlier it is caught the more likely treatment will be helpful. It is best to up the water temp to about 82-86 degrees and use epsom salts (1/8 teaspoon of epsom salts per 5 gallons) instead of aquarium salts because they will help the fish to lose some of the fluid that has built up. (It is common to think that salts would help, but in reality the fish is bloating and having a hard time ridding its body of fluid; whereas the epsom salts will "draw out toxins"). It is also wise to increase aeration since the temps will be higher. Water quality is very important at this time. This will have to be tried for about 2 weeks. Now if you think the fish is suffering from parasites you will need to treat for them first. (back to top) click below following photos for a more detailed explanation of this issue!
http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/puregold/disease/dropsy.html
Fin or Tail Rot (see photos) Fins that are badly torn or frayed for reasons other than fighting will usually indicate fin or tail rot. Fin or tail rot is a bacterial disease that usually attacks weak or minimally damaged fin edges. Once established, the bacterium consumes the fin as it works its way up toward the fish's body. This causes the fins to appear frayed or ragged or in severe cases nearly stubs. Frayed fins can also be a sign of water problems in which case the pH, ammonia, or nitrites are too high. You should check your water conditons before treating. The best prevention is to maintain accurate water conditions. Sometimes the salt level will be too high. This can cause the effects of fin-rot. Symptoms: The fish's tail or fins are ragged, frayed or appear to be shrinking or decaying. Goldfish may have red streaks in their veiltails. Treatment: It is best treated with an antibiotic. There will be one best suitable at your local pet store. Make sure it states that it treats Fin or Tail Rot. In some cases a secondary infection or fungus will appear. If this is the case, treat the fish for the fin rot and then proceed to the fungus problem.(back to top)
Fungus (see photos) In most cases, fungus is a secondary infection. If a fish has an open sore caused from injuries or even a recent disease which may have penetrated the skin, the lack of mucus covering would leave the sore unprotected. During this period of time the wound would be open to a secondary infection from fungus. To prevent fungus avoid overcrowding, remove sharp objects from the tank, use a jar or container to catch your fish( I don't like nets), and try not to frighten your fish. Symptoms: The fish has patches of white or gray fuzzy puffs(resembles cotton) attached to its skin. There may be excessive mucus on the fish's gills or surrounding the wounds. Treatment: If medicated quickly, fungus is easy to cure. There are several fungicide medications available. Most include drugs such as: acriflavine, neutroflavine, copper sulfate. Fungal medications are sometimes applied directly to the patch of fungus present on the fish. This is generally done with a cotton swab. Check your local petstore. (back to top)
Ick (see photos) This is the most scene or rather common parasitic disease among fish. It is almost always present in freshwater aquariums and infects fish that are in poor health or have had a recent infection that has temporarily left them with a lower immune system. Ick can be visible on a fish if their natural resistance is weakened. Symptoms: A fish that has contacted Ick will generally have a few small specks resembling the look of being sprinkled with salt. The fish may scratch itself of tank walls or ornaments, show signs of rapid breathing, cloudy eyes, cloudy fins/ or some fin deterioration. Treatment: At the first signs of Ick, the fish should be treated in a separate tank if possible. There are many items available on the market for the treatment of this. (back to top)
Kordon Aquarium Rid Ich
Preventative QUICK CURE works well on the treatment of Ick.
Constipation- This is often caused by a diet without enough variety, or by feeding too many starchy type foods. Symptoms: If your fish is having trouble passing feces, or if they are forever trailing behind a fish, your fish may be suffering from constipation. Treatment: Feeding your fish a diet with more roughage and a greater variety sometimes helps! Feed live foods such as (wax worms, brine shrimp, tubiflex worms, etc.) peas, spinach. If you can get your fish to eat one grain of Epson salt it can also help aid with the constipation. Soaking dry fish food in some water taken from the tank will soften the food and help in the digestion process. (back to top) More info on constipation/diarrhea The below information was sent in by DAVID BRUNY DEAR GOLDFISH LOVERS, MY NAME IS DAVID BRUNY AND I HAVE SOME VERY IMPORTANT FOR ALL OF YOU CONCERNING GOLDFISH CONSTIPATION; THERE IS A CURE FOR YOUR FISH IF YOU SEE THEM FLOATING UPSIDE DOWN.THE CURE:GET A SMALL GLASS(LIKE A SHOT GLASS) AND FILL IT WITH A LITTLE CASTOR OIL SOAK A FEW GOLDFISH FLAKE FOOD FLAKES IN THE CASTOR OIL THEN WITH A TWEEZER PICK UP A FEW OF THE FLAKES AND FEED THE(CASTOR OIL SOAKED FLAKES) TO THE AFFLICTED FISH (NOT TOO MUCH NOW) JUST ENOUGH TO GET THE OIL IN THEIR SYSTEM. I DID THIS FOR MY PRIZED RYUNKIN AND IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!!!!!!.PLEASE SHARE THIS INFO WITH ALL FISH LOVERS.THANK YOU DAVID BRUNY Slime Disease- There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in similar ways. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and Chilodonella (being the most resistant) . Once the disease has spread to the gills, it is at its deadliest form, and could prove fatal to the fish. Symptoms: frayed fins, sluggishness, dulled coloration, damaged gills, and even death. Treatment: There are many medications available to help with this illness. It is a good idea to treat the main tank to ensure that you have removed all traces of the harmful parasite from the tank! While treating the tank leave the filters running but remove any activated carbon from the tank or you will just remove any medication you have placed in the water. If the Slime disease does not clear up after following directions and use of a medication, it is most likely the Chilodonella strain and additional action must be followed. Try giving your fish a bath in salt mixed with water. If no results are occurring you may try asking a veterinarian for information on using a bath of water and formalin. The reason: a more knowledgeable person needs to assist is the fact that the fish could experience more adverse problems if the product is not administered correctly! (back to top)
Clamped Fins- The most common reason a fish will show signs of clamped fins is when the water quality is poor. Especially if the pH has crashed! Parasites can also cause this. If your water checks out fine you might consider treating with Fluke tabs. Check for ammonia, pH, and nitrites. (back to top) Read about water conditions here
Swim Bladder- Swim or air bladder problems sometimes occur in freshwater fish. I have personally seen this is fancy goldfish such as Orandas, Ryunkins, and Shubunkins. When the bladder is effected, the fish will experience equilibrium problems. Sometimes, the problem is not the bladder but other problems which directly affect the bladder. Diseased and inflamed internal organs, improper water conditions or nutrition, and wounds received from fighting with another fish can also effect the equilibrium of the fish. Constipation is also known to affect a fish's swimming ability! Symptoms: The fish has problems swimming correctly. They may appear to be standing on their head, or floating to the surface and struggling to go down to the bottom, or possibly even have problems removing themselves from the bottom. At the later stages of the disease, the fish could lose its balance and swim upside down. Treatment: There is no specific treatment for this dilemma;however, you can try isolating the fish to a quarantine tank in which the water is shallow(this provides relief for the fish). Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. Some individuals will feed thawed out frozen peas and this purges the fish's system and has been noted to help many fish. After 1-2 weeks a return to the main tank with deeper water may be tried. The best advice I can give is to maintain proper water conditions, feed your fish a well balanced diet, and possibly try feeding your goldfish sinking foods rather than floating types. They won't inhale so much air this way. The pellets if soaked in water before feeding will expand before the fish eats them and this has helped a lot. Good luck with this!! Check out http://www.koivet.com More information (back to top) (is not contagious for the other tank mates)
This information was sent by Amy Hi, first I want to thank you for the help you have previously given me. I really appreciated it. Next, I wanted to give you some info I received on a fish chat board about swim bladder. There are several people who have had fish for longer than 19 years-some nearly 30- who recommend feeding the fish thawed frozen peas without the skins, fresh spinach and the like. This is supposed to help the fish poop, and, according to responses on the board, really helps with that problem. They say it can be caused by feeding fish with food that does not absorb water well, like dry pelleted foods, and recommend soaking before feeding. The following information was sent by Cynthia For your viewers: as far as treating swim bladder disease, in my pond found my Oranda fish, Pom-Pom, belly up under a very thin layer of ice. immedietely rescued her in a large Zip-Lock bag and set up an emergency hospital tank in my house. I prepared chopped peas (without the skins) and prayed she would somehow dive down to the bottom of the tank to eat them. never saw her do it but the next day it was a miracle. She had eaten all the& peas and had a little bit more control of her swimming. I continued for week to give only peas to her and she made a full recovery. Now that she is in an indoor tank, she gets more of a variety of food now to control her swimming. For a few days I give her flake food then another day I give her& prepared peas. She LOVES it whenever she gets to eat the peas!! Every morsel is eaten. Please let your viewers know that peas are definetely a cure and provide the essential "balance" for fish. Thanks, Cynthia
Ulcers-
Ulcers are open sores located on the fish's body. Ulcers are sores
on the body caused by bacterial infection. You need to make very sure your
water quality is immaculate. Check your pH and Ammonia as well as your Nitrite
readings. Ulcers usually are caused by the Aeromonas bacteria or more
rarely Pseudomonas bacteria. The ulceration may appear with red abscesses,
or red edges around the ulcer. In some cases it can become rather large
and expose muscles. Symptoms: The fish has one or more
open sores on its body or at the base of its fins. The sore has a red abscess
or red edges. The fish may also have red fin edges or
fin rot. They may exhibit lack of appetite and
sluggish behavior. Treatment: Usually antibiotics are needed
and this is done by a series of injections. ( A vet would need
to see the fish and give you the necessary prescription). However this is
not always the best option for individuals and a product by Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals has a great product called
Mela Fix that has shown great results in the healing
of ulcers. It is easy to use and does not create issues with the water
quality. (back to top) Koivet.com
has more info on MelaFix
here.
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Mela Fix"A patented, natural, antibacterial remedy for the treatment of fresh and saltwater aquarium fish diseases."
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
PimaFix
Skin Flukes- Flukes are trematode worms up to 0.8 mm or .03 in in length. They attach themselves to the fish sometimes near the gills, by using a sucker with two clasping hooks and then they proceeded to feed on the fish skin cells. It is possible to see the flukes by using a low-powered microscope. These worms are forever producing. (the adult produces young, and even the young is producing a younger worm within it) Serious infections can result, and minor ones are less likely to be noticed. You should assume that if you are treating for a bacterial infection that you treat for Flukes as well. They are easily seen with a microscope. Most species of fish can become infected with this problem. Symptoms: The fish may rub against hard objects, and the skin may appear opaque or inflamed. Treatment: Easily treatable with Potassium permanganate, or Fluke tabs. Another known remedy is using a 3% salt dip to rid fish of the parasites. The best advice given is to keep your fish in tip-top health. Keep the tank clean, and the water conditions accurate. (back to top)
Black Spot- Usually these spots are seen as the fish is healing from ammonia surges. The area that was burned will turn black and this is the healing sign. The spots should fade within about 2 weeks. Orange Goldfish will sometimes turn black on their back and sides. After about 7 days the patches disappear and the fish appears orange. This is known as "Melanophore Migration" and is usually caused by any type of chemical irritant or traumatic injury. Some very common causes: high level of ammonia, low pH, flukes, or ick. The black color will not show up until the irritant is removed and the skin begins to heal. However if there are snails in the tank or the fish are living in ponds you should read below. These spots could be from the pigmented cysts that contain the larval stage of a trematode intestinal fluke. Symptoms: Small black or brown spots up to 2 mm (0.08 inches) across. These spots appear on the body and fins of the fish and sometimes on their mouth and eyes. Treatment: Modern anti-parasite treatments should kill the parasites. The spots once formed may remain on the fish. (back to top)
Chilodonella- This disease has a habit of showing up when a fish has been injured. The parasite attacks the fish, but can spread to healthy fish in crowded conditions. The disease is very debilitating and in severe cases can cause long-term damage to the gills. Symptoms: The fish might have clamped fins, they may be gasping at the surface or swimming around with labored breathing. They may be lethargic and spend more time hiding. Affected fish might rub against hard objects and hold in their fins. A whitish blue opaqueness might cover the skin, particularly between the head and the dorsal fin. If the gills are affected, the respiration rate increases noticeably. The later stages of the infection will give the skin a swollen appearance then fall away. Treatment: If the fish is fairly strong, a good treatment is to try a 3% salt dip. (this is a great cure to this) Keep the fish in the salt solution until they roll over, then put them back in the tank. For alternative treatment, and less stress for your fish, try a salt solution of 1% and let the fish swim in it for 10-15 minutes, then replace the fish back in the tank. Their are medications available at the pet stores. Look there and follow the directions accordingly. The parasites will die off if in the tank with no fish if they are left that way for 5 days. You must still treat your fish! Quick Cure works good for this issue. Quick Cure Directions: 3% salt dip, then administer Quick Cure for 3 days, doing 30% water changes each day before adding more medication.
Pop-Eye- Pop eye can affect pond and aquarium fishes. The progress of the disease depends on what is or has caused it. Bulging eyes can result from a number of causes, including fish tuberculosis, ichthyosporidium, dropsy, and bacterial infections. Symptoms: One or both eyes protrude abnormally. (remember some fish are bred to have protruding eyes ex: fancy goldfish) Treatment: Use anti-parasite and anti-bacterial treatments. This is usually effective. (back to top)
Cloudy Eye- Cloudy eye can have many causes. Look for signs of Velvet Disease, Ick, and Fish tuberculosis. However, sometimes this is caused due to bacterial infections. Symptoms: One or both eyes become cloudy, and take a whitish appearance. Fish may show signs of distress, and be off-color and behave abnormally. Treatment: Establishing the likely cause of the problem and treating it as soon as possible is the best way to prevent damage to your fish's nervous system. The incidences of cloudy eye can be maintained by keeping the water quality in a good condition, and adding a small amount of aquarium salt to the water at water changes. There are many good medications available at your local pet stores that deal with this problem. Follow the recommended accordingly. (back to top) Blood Flagellates - Normally aquarium fish are not affected by this. This disease consists of single-celled organisms with hair-like flagellae. They live as parasites in the blood of the fish. They live in a leeches intestines and are passed on to the fish when the leech bites the fish. Symptoms: Fish will appear listless and swim abnormally. They become emaciated, with sunken eyes and pale gills (this indicates low red blood cells). Severely infected fish will die. Treatment: No chemical treatment has been found to be effective against blood flagellates in fish. Since only fish that have been attacked by leeches become infected, it is most effective to remove the infected fish and eliminate the leeches. It is an easier task to accomplish in an aquarium than a pond. (back to top)
Costia- Costia is liable to affect goldfish. Costia (Ichthyobodo) is a microscopic protozoan flagellate. A microscope is needed to see it clearly. The organism attaches itself to the fish and destroys skin cells. It usually preys on fish that are already ill, or weakened. This is seen in overcrowded tanks. In ponds it is seen in the spring. While the parasite is attached to the fish it will thrive. If the parasite falls from the fish it will die within an hour. When the infestation begins fish are liable to die within a few days if treatment is not administered. Symptoms: Red hemorrhaging will appear usually under the chin and along the fish's back. If the red dots are under the scales it is more than likely a bacterial infection. Affected fish will swim awkwardly, with their fins folded. They may seem to be scratching themselves against objects in the tank. An off-white film over the body with reddening of the most affected areas may be seen upon closer inspection. Treatment: The best treatment is to raise the water's temperature to 770F where the parasite will be unhappy and to 860F where they will die. This may be a dangerous task if the fish are suffering from a severe infestation. Putting your fish in a 3% salt dip until they roll over (then quickly put them back in the tank) or a 1% salt bath for 20 minutes may work. There are anti-parasite medications available at the local pet stores. Follow directions on the packages. If using Quick Cure do not use the high temperature treatment or salt. This will kill your fish! Quick Cure Directions: Use a salt dip to remove the slime coat, treat with the Quick Cure for 3 days changing 30% of the water daily before adding more drops. Then do a water change and heat the tank to 86 degrees for 3 days and then slowly lower the tank temp back to normal over a course of a few days. Do not change the temp by more than 4 degrees in a 24 hour period. (back to top) Scale Loss- If your fish are losing scales for no apparent reason (such as breeding) then it is commonly found to be caused from Myxosporidiosis. The only treatment for this is to keep doing water changes and get rid of the parasites. Symptoms: Fish gasping, pale gills. (back to top) Fish Leech- There are about 300 different species of leeches. They are worm-like creatures that suck on the fish. Besides having an adverse effect on fish they are carriers of blood flagellates. They cause wounds that could end up with secondary infections such as fungus, and bacterial infections. Symptoms: Fish become restless and will try to remove the leech by rubbing against objects in the tank. If you look closely you will see the leech clinging to the body of the fish. Treatment: A 3 % salt dip is usually effective. Pull off any leeches that do not fall off during the dip. Do not remove the leeches before the salt dip or you could cause further injury to your fish. There are medications available at the local pet stores if you are more comfortable using that form of treatment. (back to top)
Fish Lice- Fish lice can infect many species of fish. These parasitic crustaceans have eight feathery legs they use to swim with. They grab on to the fish and draw blood and body tissues from beneath the skin. There are about 200 species of fish lice (argulus) worldwide. Symptoms: Fish lice are disc-shaped parasites between 8 and 12 mm (0.3-0.5in) in diameter and vary in color from light green to brown. They can be seen attached to the fish's body and fins. Treatment: Fish lice are relatively large so they can be removed individually from the fish using tweezers. Some information states using a strong salt solution applied with a paintbrush to help dislodge them. There are medications at pet stores available to help with this situation also. (back to top)
Fish Tuberculosis- The bacteria Mycobacterium is responsible for this problem. This infection can infect humans, so take precautions when siphoning water from the tank. (do not swallow it) Wash your hands very well when finished. Symptoms: Affected fish may show loss of appetite, become lazy or listless, and lose color. When the disease has progressed the fish may become emaciated and develop bulbous eyes and skin defects. They may also suffer a deformed spine. A lot of the time no outward signs will be seen before several fish die suddenly. Treatment: In the early stages a human anti-TB drug could be used (seek a veterinarian for this). However, once the disease has advanced the medication does not seem to help. Always remove the sick and dying fish. Your other fish will eat on the dead or dying. By removing them you keep from spreading the disease in the aquarium. back to top
Internal Parasitic Worms- Intestinal worms are usually found in outdoor fish. Indoor fish can become infected through wild-caught fish, or by feeding certain live foods that carry the parasites. Thorny headed worms- These parasites attach themselves to the intestine, damaging lining and making the fish susceptible to infections and other parasites. These particular parasites hang on the gut lining by a cluster of tiny hooks and absorb food over their entire body surface. Tapeworms- They are usually flattened and similar to a ribbon in shape. They use sucking discs or hooks to attach themselves to the belly or intestine of the fish. Threadworms or roundworms- They are usually found in the intestine of the fish. There are only a few select species that will be found in fish tanks. Camallanus- A worm that infects the rectum of aquarium fish. It is usually seen in livebearing fish. Clusters of the worm can sometimes be seen protruding from the anus of a resting fish. Intestinal flukes- The gill and skin flukes are exterior parasites. Treatment: Severe infestations are difficult to treat in internal parasitic worms. You would have to check with a veterinarian for more help on this issue. Prevention is the best medicine. back to top
Tumours- Tumours can be benign and/or cancerous. Most tumours are incurable. Abnormal growth in the thyroid gland is sometimes curable. Symptoms: Internal tumours can only be detected when they distend the body. External tumours can be visually noticed. Any fish can be affected. Treatment: Thyroid tumours need a vet's identification. They may be cured with prolonged baths in 5mg/litre of potassium iodide solution. However, it is usually recommended to dispose of the fish in a humane way. back to top
Flipover Disease- This happens when a fish is not able to right itself. The fish will then starve. To read more information on this click here.
Bent Spine- This can be caused from vitamin C deficiency, as well as injury. If you have any electricity making its way into the water this can cause a bent spine as well.
Humane Disposal of a fish- Sometimes although we have given our fish the best possible care, they become ill with something we cannot treat. At this time it is in the fish's best interest to dispose of it. It is the least distressing for your pet. Traditional methods were to chop its head off. Now days some are suggesting placing your fish in a bag of water (adding some ice cubes) and putting it in the freezer. Since they are cold blooded animals they lose heat and they slip into unconsciousness and lose sensation. However, more reports are surfacing that states freezing the animals is not the best choice. SEE BELOW: I received this email from Lisa at FRIESIAN@prodigy.net Hi! I like your web page. Just a quick note on humane euthanasia... The freezer method is OK, but I was informed of a better method by a veterinarian who specializes in fish. I am a third year vet student at U of Pennsylvania and unfortunately I have had some cause to use this method, so I know that it works and it works well. Eugenol is a compound that is used to anesthetize fish; it is better known as clove oil and can be purchased in a pharmacy. It needs to be dissolved in vodka before you add it to the water the fish is in. The proper dose is 1 cc of eugenol + 9 ccs vodka to one gallon of water. When I had to euthanize my rather large oranda I used 2 ccs of eugenol + 18 ccs of vodka added to the 2 gallons of water my fish was in; he just went to sleep very quietly and peacefully. The process takes about 10 minutes. Please post this if you think it could be of help to other goldfish owners; I think its better and certainly quicker than the freezer. Thanks!! Lisa back to top The following Email was received by Bridey Maxwell from the Salk Institue for Biological Studies I read your humane disposal of fish section. When cold blooded animals become chilled they cannot move so their death appears peaceful but there is some evidence (I cannot remember where I read this as it was 7 yrs ago when I was researching this subject in regards to humanely killing frogs). However, the animal can feel the pain of ice crystals forming in the body while it freezes. The eugenol method as written above is far more humane since I believe it is an overdose of anesthetic which stops nerve function thus eliminating pain. We switched from freezing to using an overdose of an anesthetic (the active ingredient in Anbesol) for frog euthanasia. The below information is from BuddyHolly Preferred Method: Clove Oil and Tank Water Method Buy pure clove oil. You can get it at a health food store for under $10 for a ½ ounce bottle. Put the fish in a medium sized mixing bowl in his own water from his tank. In a small jar or something with a lid (I use a cleaned out jelly jar) mix the clove oil with tank water. Put the lid on and shake it like crazy over and over until the liquid in it is white. Then pour a little into the mixing bowl with the fish. Swirl it with your hand. The fish might fight it just a little bit and then slow down. Then pour a little more in and swirl again. He should just go to sleep and appear dead. If he doesn't, try a little more of the clove solution, always shaking very well before an addition to the bowl. When he goes to sleep, leave him in the solution for a good 10 minutes and then put him in a small cup or zip-lock baggie and put him in the freezer. Pain free death. Very humane. We should all go so easily. Clove Oil and Vodka DON'T USE!!!! The clove oil and vodka method is often sited as a humane method of fish euthanasia. Clove oil (eugenol) is used as an anesthetic in fish for surgery. The vodka is used to disperse the clove oil in the water. The clove oil/vodka mixture is placed in water and then the fish is added and supposedly dies peacefully. This doesn't work! Use the clove oil and tank water method described above.
Salts to treat- You can use Kosher salts, Sea Salts, Non-Iodized Table, Rock and Ice-cream Salts. Do not use YPS/Yellow Prussiate or Soda. Prussiac Acid is TOXIC...
The salts are used at a 0.3% which is 3 pounds per 100 gallons of water
Check out the salt dosage chart here
COPYRIGHT © 1998-2008 All Rights Reserved by Lyn Duedall
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Male
goldfish will have white spots that resemble ICK on their gill plates and
pectoral fins. These spots show that they are of breeding age.
